We have compared some of the important specs from some of the main models available in New Zealand.
This page is probably best viewed on a Tablet or on a computer – We have added notes to each section
Thermal Scopes are complex and they are ALL expensive.
You should be aware of some basics before you consider purchasing a scope. Have a think about what you want and why and how you are going to use it
As you can see from the tables below all these scopes are in the same class but there are some very significant differences.
If you would like to know more or compare what you are thinking – talk to us or even experts from a competitor that should all be able to answer your questions.
|
Brand / Model |
Pard SA32 |
Pulsar Thermion XQ50 |
NiteTech MS42R |
HIK Panther PH35/50 |
HIK Stellar |
|
Thermal Core Specs |
384×288 pix. @ 12 µm |
384×288 pix. @ 17 µm |
384×288 pix. @ 12 µm |
384×288 pix. @ 12 µm |
384×288 pix. @ 12 µm |
|
Battery Type |
1 x 18650 |
Pulsar Design |
2 x CR123 |
1 x 18650 |
2 x Internal 1 x External CR123 |
|
Sensitivity |
<25mk |
<25mk |
<35mk |
<35mk |
<35mk |
Pixel Spacing
Another key component in determining the performance of the Thermal Device. This is measured in microns (um), smaller is closer and therefore more pixels per square inch of target, which means more resolution. Over the years this was .25 then we have moved to .17 and now we have .12 as the new standard.
The difference from .17 to .12 is 29% so that is a significant difference
Our Advice – Choose a device that has a .12um core; anything else is based on older technology
Sensitivity
Simply put this is how well (at a defined set of parameters) the thermal sensor can discern between 2 temperatures.
It is measured in Millikelvin (mK). Typically from 25mK to 50mK. The smaller the figure the better the sensor can discern small temperature differences, a Lower Figure will generally result in a better image, with better contrast
25mk which is considered the new standard
- 25mK is Class Leading
- 35mK is 40% WORSE than 25mK
Batteries
Batteries are probably the most important item that will determine the overall lifetime of the device
The best batteries are those with a good capacity, are easy to change.
- 18650 – hold around 3100-3200ma per battery; can also be used in your torches and are the best choice
- Internal batteries limit your selection and are often expensive to replace or carry spares as they are limited to 1 design and supplier
- Avoid designs like this
- Some have both an internal battery and an 18650 battery
- Avoid Designs like this - that's another layer of electronics and what will happen if the internal fails
- CR123 while they are small they lack the battery capacity and more are required – Typically 650ma per rechargeable battery
Batteries are also affected by cold weather and often the higher run times are quoted at temperatures of 25c or so – How many of you have been night hunting in that sort of temperature?! Real world run times are going to be less than the box says.
You can read more about Batteries here
Rangefinder and Ballistics
|
Brand / Model |
Pard SA32 |
Pulsar Thermion XQ50 |
NiteTech MS42R |
HIK Panther PH35/50 |
HIK Stellar |
|
Rangefinder |
Yes – All Models – 1200m |
Yes – 800m – LRF Model only |
No |
Yes – 600m |
No |
|
Ballistics |
Yes – full Ballistics |
No |
No |
No |
No |
How do you tell the range at night? On an expensive thermal (they all are) a Laser Rangefinder is mandatory not an option.
And with modern electronics and computers every rangefinder equipped scope should have full ballistics so you can see your real aiming point.
|
Brand / Model |
Pard SA32 |
Pulsar Thermion XQ50 |
NiteTech MS42R |
HIK Panther PH35/50 |
HIK Stellar |
|
Optical Magnification |
3.7x or 4.7x |
2.5 or 3x |
3x |
2.96 or 4.22x |
2.31 to 3.85 |
Optics
Optical Magnification – What’s Important
Most people are using a minimum 3-4x day rifle scope at the lower level. So it stands to reason that if you are used to this level; likely you are going to want that at least at night
However some scopes have significantly less magnification to start with is this really going to work for you? maybe if you are shooting rats in a barn?.
We recommend that you put your normal scope on 2-4x power and see the difference
Remember you cannot optically zoom these scopes
Digital Magnification
Be very wary of claims of huge Zoom ranges as to if they are really usable or not at real shooting distances
Digital scopes (including Thermal) can digitally zoom to higher levels – HOWEVER in doing so the image is degraded with each step – If you require a higher level of magnification with your scope you should look further into your options.
When you use digital zoom, it ONLY enlarges the pixels AND reduces the image resolution and the image quality. And the further you zoom the worse it gets
The more steps you use in Digital Zoom the worse the image will be from the base optical level – The size of the sensor reduces this at the beginning if it is more pixels recorded, but once the image is smaller than the sensor there aren’t any extra pixels to make up the image and from then its all down hill for image quality.
For example if the 384×288 sensor is on 8 times zoom you are using just 48×36 pixels displayed on your screen at 21×21 pixels for a SINGLE real pixel
Servicing
What about service if something does happen – ask the dealer what happens – for PARD Backup and support is important for us and a requirement for our other work ask about HOW LONG it will take to resolve an issue – It should also be a concern for yourself before investing in Night Vision equipment.
Detection Ranges
A word on Detection ranges given, they don’t really represent real world distances and it just sounds amazing to see a deer at 2000m!! – reality is a detection can just mean a few dots!
Nor do these great big animals in marketing images represent what you will see – those are often so close you can hit them with a rock!!
Ever seen a bear in New Zealand?
If the NZ Agents aren’t showing you real images taken in NZ are they capable of supporting and understand the Technology?